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Snow's Skirt System 



Instruction Book 



INSTRUCTION BOOK 

Snow's Skirt System 

AND THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES 
OF SKIRT DESIGNING 



A Scientific System 

of 

Skirt Cutting 



NINTH EDITION 

Copyright 1918, by Lester J. Snow 



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General Instructions 



The system consists of a set of chart pieces used for lo- 
cating the dimensions; a scroll piece used for producing the 

curves, and an instruction book. 

The dimensions for all sizes and forms are calculated and 
marked on these chart pieces in numbered perforations which 
correspond with certain sizes. The various sets of perfor- 
ations are gathered into sections, each section being num- 
bered, and in giving directions, we refer only to the number 
of the section, i. e., point 1 would be taken off in section 1, 
point 2 in section 2. and so on. Arbitrary points are lettered. 

To use, it is simply necessary to make a mark or dot in 
those perforations where the numbered size corresponds with 
the required measure. These points should be made distinctly 
so that there will be no difficulty in locating them. 

The points are connected with the scroll piece. This tool 
has a curved edge used for curved lines and a straight edge for 



straight lines. . The indicator on the system shows how the 
scroll is to be placed in making connections, and also shows 
that its curved edge is to be used, the omission of the indicator 
meaning that the line is to be straight. Each indicator on the 
system denotes one stroke of the scroll. 

Place the scroll so that the indicator on the scroll points 
in the same direction as the indicator on the system. It tin- 
indicator on the system is outside of the line, place the scroll 
outside of the points, making an "in*' curve, while if the 
indicator on the system is inside of the line, place the scroll 
inside of the points, making an "out" curve. In producing 
straight lines, the edge of the system, any straight edge or the 
straight side of the scroll may be used. 

It is important that the scroll is used correctly that a 
smooth, regular curve be produced. In making the successive 
strokes of a continuous curve, as on the bias side, fit the scroll 
carefully to the line already made. 




How to Take Measures 



In cutting skirts, six measures are re- 
quired, viz: — Waist, hip, front length, right 
hip length, back length, and left hip length. 

Size of Waist: Stand in front of the 
person being measured. Pass the tape around 
the natural waist line and take a tight meas- 
ure. Certain styles, semi-fitting, etc., require 
that certain amounts be added for looseness. 
See instructions under these garments. 

Hip Measure: Measure around the .- 
hips, six inches below the waist line, drawing v^> 
the tape as close as the garment is to be worn. 

Skirt Lengths: Measures are taken 
from the natural waist line. Take front 
length, right hip length, back length and left 
hip length. For a walking skirt, they are taken 
to the floor. For a long, even length skirt, 
take the front and back measures loose to the 
floor, and in taking hip lengths, allow the tape 
to lie one inch on the floor. 

For sweep skirts, allow the tape to lie an 
inch on the floor for the front and back, and 
from one and one-half inches to two inches 
on the floor for hip lengths, according to the 
size of the hips. 

It seems almost unnecessary to say that 
measures should be taken with great care. 
Take time to do the work carefully and be 
sure that your tape is accurate, never using 
an old worn one. 




-5 1918 



©CI.A5057r>3 



Two or Four Gore Foundation Skirts 

The lines of the Two Gore and Four Gore Foundations are exactly alike. The Foundation is Two Gore when cut with 
the center of the front and the center of the back on the fold of the goods, or Four Gore when cut with a seam in the center of 
the front and in the center of the back. 

The chart piece for "Backs" shows two backs which are alike except that the one on the inside has less ripple and is the 
one used when a pane! back is to be designed or less ripple is desired. 



Front: Use the chart piece "Front for Two and Four 
Gore Skirts." Mark in perforations A and B, in that perfor- 
ation corresponding with the waist measure in sections 1 and 
2, and in that perforation corresponding with the hip measure 
in sections 3 and 4. In marking in the perforations, be care- 
ful to make a distinct mark which can be easily located. 

Connect points A and B with a straight line and extend 
it to the length required. Connect points 3 and 4 with a 
straight line and extend it to the length required. Connect 
points A and 1, 1 and 2. and 2 and 3 with the scroll placed as 
indicated. 

Draw the straight line connecting points 3 and 4 before 
connecting points 2 and 3. then be careful that the scroll just 
fits into the straight line at point 3, forming a continuous line 
without a point or hollow. This same thought should be 
observed in forming the curve at the top. This line is pro- 
duced by two strokes of the scroll and should be perfectly 
smooth. 

Back: With most ripple. Use the chart piece "Back for 
Two and Four Gore Skirts." Mark in perforations A and B, 
in thai perforation corresponding with the waist measure in 
seel ions 1 and 2, and in that perforation corresponding with 
the hip measure in sections 3 and 4. 

Connect points A and B with a straight line and extend'it 
to the length required. Connect points 3 and 4 with a straight 



line and extend it to the length required. Connect points A 
and 1, 1 and 2, and 2 and 3 with the scroll placed as indicated, 

Draw the straight line connecting points 3 and 4 before 
connecting points 2 and 3, then be careful that the scroll just 
fits into the straight line at point 3, forming a smooth, con- 
tinuous line. 

Back: To be used when panel back is to be designed or 
less ripple is desired. Use the chart piece "Back for Two 
and Four Gore Skirts." Mark in perforations C and B, in 
that perforation corresponding with the waist measure in 
sections 5 and 6, and in that perforation corresponding with 
the hip measure in sections 7 and 8. 

Connect points C and B with a straight line and extend 
it to the length required. Connect points 7 and 8 with a 
straight line and extend to the length required. Draw this 
line before connecting points 6 and 7 with the scroll, and be 
careful that the scroll just fits into the straight line at point 
7, forming a smooth, continuous line. Connect points C and 
5, 5 and 6, and 6 and 7 with the scroll placed as indicated. 

Either of these skirts will be Two Gore if cut without a 
seam in either the center of the front or the center of -the 
back, or Four Gore if cut with seams in both the center of 
the front and the center of the back, or Three Gore if the 
front be cut without a seam and the back with seam, or the 
front with a seam and the back without. 



To Test the Length of Two 
and Four Gore Skirts 

3i e figures 1 and 2. Find the center 
of each piece at the waist and at the 
bottom and connect the points thus ob- 
tained with straight lines. Measure on 
both sides of each piece and through the 
center, the required length measure ami 
connect the points thus located with the 
scroll, placing it inside of the points and 
with the indicator pointing toward the 
bias side. Measure from the waist line 
down and follow the curve. Be careful 
that the tape line and paper are both held 

The straight side or center of the 
front must measure the front length meas- 
ure. The bias side of the front and the 
side of the back joining the front must each 
measure the hip length measure. The 
middle of the front gore must measure as 
much longer than the front as one-half of 
the difference between the front and hip 
lengths. The middle of the back gore must 
measure as much longer or shorter than 
the back as one-half of the difference between the back and 
hip lengths. The straight side or center of the back must 
measure the back length measure. 




Allow for finish at the bottom and for seams at the waist. 
and on each side of the gore except that side which is cut on 
the fold of the goods. 



Skirt With Panel Front or Panel Back 





Draft a foundation Two Gore skirt without ripple in the 
back to measure and test it to the required length. This 
skirt is high waisted, so change the foundation to the Empire 
as shown on page 7. Test the foundation to the required 
size around the bottom by measuring in from point 4 one-half 
of the required change on the half skirt on both the front and 
back, locating points 5. Connect points 3 and 5 on both the 
front and back with a straight line which becomes the bias 
side of the gore. 

First plan the design on the foundation. See figure 15. 
Measure out from point A one-half of the width of the panel 
at the waist, in this case three and one-half inches, as the 
panel is planned seven inches wide at the waist, locating 
point 6. Measure out from point B one-half of the width of 
the panel at the bottom, in this case five and one-half inches, 
locating point 7. Connect points 6 and 7 with a straight line 
and extend it to the top. 

Now cut the front gore on the line 6-7. The piece in 
the center of the front becomes the foundation for the panel 
front, and the other part the piece which joins the panel. 
The panel back should be planned in the same way and the 
piece in the center of the back becomes the panel and the 
other part the piece which joins the panel. 

If a half plait is not to be used on the edge of the panel, 
allow for a seam at least one inch wide on the bias side to 
allow for wide stitching. In the illustration we have shown 
a half plait. These instructions also show the production of 
a single plait on a seam. 

See figure 16. Pin the foundation for the panel to an 
under paper with the center of the front exactly on the edge 
of the paper. Measure out from point 6 the width of the 
plait at the waist, in this case one and one-half inches, locat- 
ing point 8, and out from point 7 the width of the plait at 
the bottom, in this case one and one-half inches, locating 
point 9. Measure out from points S and 9 one-half inch for 



seam. Connect points 8 and 9, and the seam points with 
straight lines, extending them to the high waist line. 

Trace the high waist line, line 6-7, and the bottom to the 
under paper and cut out the pattern, allowing for a seam at 
the waist line and for finish at the bottom. 

See figure 17. Pin the foundation pattern for the piece 
which joins the front to an under paper with its edge four or 
five inches in from the edge of the paper. A half plait was 
produced on the bias side of the panel front, therefore, a half 
plait must be produced on the straight side of this gore joining 
the panel front. 

Measure out from point 6 the width of the plait at the 
waist, in this case one and one-half inches, locating point 10, 
and out from point 7 the width of the plait at the bottom, in 
this case one and one-half inches, locating point 11. Measure 
mit from points 10 and 11 one-half inch for seam. Connect 
points 10 and 11, and the seam points with straight lines, 
extending them to the high waist line. 

Trace the outline of the whole foundation pattern to the 
under paper and cut out the pattern on the outline thus 
formed, allowing for seams at the waist and on the bias edge, 
and for finish on the bottom. 

If a plait is not to be used, some time can be saved by 
tracing the panel front to an under paper and then cutting 
out the piece which joins the panel, allowing for a seam on 
the straight side. 

A panel back would be planned in exactly the same 
manner, except to plan on the back, and would also be de- 
signed in the same manner. 

The pattern for a panel front or panel back should be 
placed on the fold of the goods. The piece which joins the 
panel front should be placed with its straight edge on the 
straight of the goods. The piece which joins the panel back 
should lie placed with the middle of the gore on the straight 
of the gin ids. 



Shaped Yoke 



Tins illustration is in- 
troduced to show how a 
design can be worked out 
from squared lines. Draft 
a foundation two gore 
skirt and test it to the re- 
quired length. 

This illustration shows 
thai the skirt is slightly 
high waisted, therefore, 
design the empire effect in 
the usual way. Join the 
two gores, trout and back, 
from the hip down, with 
the bias sides ju.st meet- 
ing. 

Measure down from 
point A on the center of 
the front, the depth of the 
yoke below the waist line, 
locating point 1. Meas- 
ure down from point k. on 
the center of the back, the 
depth of the yoke m the 
center of the back, locat- 
ing point 4. Measure 
down from point 2, follow- 
ing the curve of the hip. the depth of the yoke over the hi]), 
locating point 5. 

Now square out from the center of the front at point 1. 
from the center of the back at point 4, and both ways from 
the hip line at point 5. Measure out both ways from point 
5, one-half the width of the yoke at the bottom, locating 
points 6 and 7. Measure out on the lines squared from points 
1 and 4, one-hall the width of the space at the top. locating 
point- s and 9. 




Connect points t> and 8, and 7 ami 9 with straight lines. 

Now simply fill in the square. The line should be raised 
slightly at points 8 and 9, and the corner smoothed with a 
sharp curve. The line should also be raised slightly at the 
bottom as shown, and the corners smoothed with sharp 
curves. 

Separate the foundation patterns, trace the patterns for 
the front and back yokes to an under paper and cut out. al- 
lowing for seams at the top, bias sides and bottom. 



To Test a Foundation Skirt to a 
Certain Width at the Bottom 

See figure 3. Test the foundation to the re- 
quired length and measure both gores on the bottom. 
If the result is one-half of the required width at the 
bottom, the pattern is correct; but if more or less, 
correct the pattern by changing point 4 on the bot- 
tom of both the front and back, each one-half of the 
difference between the present and the required 
ires. 

If the change on the half pattern is but a -mall 
amount, an inch and one-half or less, connect 
points :i and 5 with a straight line as illustrated. 
But if it is necessary to change a considerable 
amount, fit the scroll into the hip curve as shown in 
figure 4 and then draw a straight line from point 5 
to u here it strikes a tangent on the edge of the scroll. 
This will avoid making the skirt too scant just 
below the hip. 




Skirt With Inverted Plait 



Draft a foundation Two < lore 
skirl without ripple in the back 
to measure and test to the re- 
quired lengt h. 

This iilu-1 ral ion shows a high 
waisted effect, therefore, change 
i he foundation to the Empire ac- 
ninliiiL! to instruct inns mi p:iti<- 7. 
Test (he foundation to I he re- 
quired size around t he bol torn bj 
measuring in from point 4 one- 
half of the required change on 
the half skirt on both the front 
and back, locating point 5 on 
both the front and back. Con- 
nect points 3 and 5 on both the 
front and back with a straight 
line, which becomes the bias side 
of the gore. 

First plan the design on the 
foundation. See figure 7. Pin 
the foundation to an under paper 
with the two gores joined at the 
waist and hip points. Measure 
out from point A on the front 
the width which the plait is from 
the center of the front at the 
waist, in this ease four inches, 

locating point 6. Measure out from point B on the front the 
width which the plait is from the center of the front at the 
bottom, in this case seven inches, locating point 9. Connect 
points ti and 9 with a straight line extending it to the high 
waist line. This line represents the edges of the inverted 
plait on the front. 

Measure in from point A on the back, the width which 
the plait is from the center of the back, locating point 10. 
Measure in from point B on the back the width which t he 
plait is from the center of the back at the bottom, locating 
point 11. Connect points 10 and 11 with a straight line. 
This line represents the edges of the inverted plait on the back. 

Design the tab as illustrated. 

Trace the part nearest to the center of the front, including 
the tab to the under paper. Then cut the foundations on the 
lines 6-9, and 10-11. See figure 8. Pin the foundation which 
forms the center of the front to an under paper, with the center 
of the front exactly on the edge of the paper. 

Measure out from point 8 the width of the plait at the 
top, locating point 12. Measure out from point 9 the width 
of the plait at the bottom, locating point 13. Measure out 
from points 12 and 13 one-half inch for seam. Connect 
points 12 and 13, and the seam points with straight lines, thus 
forming a half plait on the bias side of the front piece. 

See figure 9. Pin the piece which joins the front to an 
under paper with its edge four or five inches in from the edge 
of the paper. Measure out from point 6 twice the width of 



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the plait at the waist, locating point 14, and out from point 
14 the width of the plait, locating point 15. Measure out 
from point 9 twice the width of the plait at the bottom, 
locating point 16, and out from point 16 the width of the 
plait, locating point 17. Measure out from points 15 and 17 
one-half inch for seam. Connect points 14 and 16, 15 and 17, 
and the seam points with straight lines, extending them to 
the high waist line. This forms a whole plait and a half plait 
on the straight side of the piece joining the center front. 

Ordinarily it is best to form the whole plait and the half 
plait on the center front, and a half plait on the piece which 
joins the front, but on account of the tab, that is not possible 
in this case. 

See figures 10 and 11. Proceed in the same manner to 
form a whole plait and a half plait on the piece forming the 
center of the back, and a half plait on the piece which joins 
the center of the back. 

Trace the outline of each foundation pattern to an under 
paper. Cut out each one on the outline thus formed, but be 
sure to fold the whole plait, i. e., line 6-9 over the line 14-16, 
and line 10-11 over to the line 20-22 before cutting out. Then 
cut out the patterns on the outlines thus formed, allowing 
for finish at the bottom, and for seams at the top and on the 
sides except in the center of the front and the center of the 
back. 

See instructions for an inverted plait in the center of the 
back on page 9. 



The Designing of Plaits 

The illustrations and instructions for plaits show the 
various types of plaits and explain a number of fundament 1 
principles. 

The first move is the planning of the design on the 
foundation. The planning consists of locating the edges of 
the plaits on the foundations. If the foundation has been 



correctly cut, the designed pattern must of necessity In- 
correct. 

In designing, it is usual to work from the center of the 
front, and the plait coming nearest to the center must lie 
designed first; then the next, and so on. It will be noted 
that the edge of the plait is traced to the under paper an! 




the plait is then formed. In folding it, care must be taken 
to fold in the direction in which the plait is to lie, toward the 
front or toward the hack. When a plait comes on a seam, 
a half plait must be formed on the edge of each gore in order 
that the seam wil' be out of sight. 



Plaits may be planned any width desired and may be 
the same width at the top and bottom or wider at the bot- 
tom. On a circular skirt, they are usually the same width 
at the top and I ottom, which prevents the extra bias edge. 



Empire Skirt 



Take the usual measures, with the addi- 
tion of one around the waist at the point 
where the top of the girdle effect will come, 
ami one from the top of the girdle to the 
waist line. 

Draft a foundation skirt to measure and 
rest it to the required length. 

To design, see figures 1 and 2. The 
shaded portions show a foundation two gore 
skirt. Extend the center of the front and the 
center of the back up from points A. Meas- 
ure nji from points A, 1 and 2 on both the 
front and back the height of the girdle, locat- 
ing points 3, 4 and 5 on each. Connect these 
points with the scroll placed as indicated, and 
extend the line beyond point 5 on each. 

Now test to the required measure at the 
top of the girdle by measuring between points 
:; and 5 on both the front and the back. Di- 
vide the necessary change for the half pattern 
into two parts and measure out from points 
5 on both the front and back that amount, 
locating points 6. 

Measure down from point 2 on both the 
front and back, following the hip curve, one 
and one-quarter inches, locating points 7. 
Connect points 6 and 7 with a smooth curve with the scroll 
placed as indicated. This has the effect of adding about one- 
quarter of an inch to the natural waist line at point 2. which 
is necessary for an empire effect. 




Cut out the pattern on the^outline thus formed, allowing 
for all seams. 



Skirt With Double Plait 




See illustration which shows a skirt with a double plait 
on each side of the front. 

Draft a foundation Two Gore skirt without ripple in the 
back to measure and test it to the required length. This 
illustration shows a high waisted effect, therefore, change the 
foundation to the Empire as illustrated on page 7. Test the 
foundation to the required size around the bottom by meas- 
uring in from point 4 one-half of the required change on the 
half skirt on both the front and back, locating points 5. 
Connect points 3 and 5 with a straight line. 

First plan the design on the foundation. See figure 1. 
Measure out from point A on the waist line one-half of the 
width of the panel at the waist, in this case four inches, locat- 
ing point 6, and out from point B on the bottom, one-half 
of the width of the panel at the bottom, in this case seven 
inches, locating point 8. Connect points 6 and 8 witli a 
straight line, extending it to the high waist line. This repre- 
sents the edge of the first plait. 

Measure out from point 6 on the waist line, the distance 
between the plaits at the waist, in this case one and one-half 
inches, locating point 7, and out from point 8 the distance 
between the plaits on the bottom, in this case two and one- 
half inches, locating point 9. Connect points 7 and 9 with a 
straight line, extending it to the high waist line. This repre- 
sents the edge of the second plait. 

Plan the plaits on the back in the same way. 

This skirt is cut without a seam over the hip and with 
slight gathers at the waist. See figure 2. Pin the foundations 
to an under paper with the bottom points .". just uniting, and 
separated one inch at the hip, points 3. Connect the high 
waist line points as illustrated. Trace the waist lines, bottom, 
center of front, center of back and the lines representing the 
edges of the plaits through to the under paper. Remove the 
foundations. Now (ait this new foundation into three parts 
by cutting on the lines 7-9 and 10—12. 

See figure 3. Pin the pattern for the front to an under 
paper with the center of the front exactly on the edge of the 



paper. The plait nearest to the center of the front must be 
designed first; therefore, trace points 6 and 8 through to the 
under paper and turn the pattern back. See figure 4. Meas- 
ure out from point 6 twice the width of the plait at the waist, 
locating point 14, and out from point 8, twice the width of the 
] plait at the bottom, locating point 15. Connect points 6 
and 8, and 14 and 15 with straight lines. Fold the line 6-8 
over to the line 14-15 and pin down, thus forming the first 
plait. 

See figure 5. A half plait must now be produced on the 
bias side. Turn the pattern down and trace points 7 and 9 
through. Measure out from point 7 the width of the plait at 
the waist, locating point 16, and out from point 9 the width 
of the plait at the bottom, locating point 17. Measure out 
from points 16 and 17 one-half inch for seam. Connect 
points 7 and 9, 16 and 17, and the seam points with straight 
lines, and extend them to the high waist line. 

Trace the waist line and the bottom line, and cut out 
the pattern, allowing for a seam at the waist and for finish 
at the bottom. 

For this garment, this plait has been planned one and 
one-half inches wide at both the waist and the bottom, but it 
may be more or less than that amount, or wider at the bottom 
as desired. 

Design the plaits for the back in exactly the same manner 
and cut out the pattern. 

See figure 6. Pin the pattern for the side gore to an 
under paper as illustrated. A half plait was formed on both 
the front and the back; therefore, a half plait must I"- formed 
on both edges of the side gore. 

Measure out from point 7 the width of the plait at the 
waist, locating point IS, and out from point 9 the width of 
the plait at the bottom, locating point 19. Measure out one- 
half inch for seams from points IS and 19. Connect points 
IS and 19, and the seam points with straight lines, extending 
them to the high waist line. 




Measure out from point 10 the width of the plait at the 
waist, beating point 20, and out from point 12 the width of 
the plait at the bottom, locating point 21. Measure out 
one-half inch for seam from points 20 and 21. Connect 
points 20 and 21, and the spam points with straight lines, 
extending them to the high waist line. 

Trace the waist line, bottom and both -ides of the foun- 
dation pattern to the under paper and cut out the pattern. 
allowing for a seam at the waist and on the bias side, and for 
finish at tile bottom. 

This illustrates a principle upon which all side plaits are 
Formed. Observe that when the plait comes in the gore a 
whole plait is formed. When it comes on a seam, a half plan 
is necessary in order to make the seam invisible. A half 
plait must also be formed on the adjoining side. 

In folding a plan, fold m the direction it is to he. thus 
in this illustration, the plaits turn toward the back; therefore, 
the line 6-8 in figure 4 folds over to the line 14-15. If the 
plait turned toward the front, it would be formed in the same 
way, but the line 14-1.5 would be folded over to the line 6-8. 

To place the pattern on the goods, the panel should be 
placed with the center of the front on the fold of the goods, 
but the side gore should lie placed with its middle on the 
straight of the goods 



To Form an Inverted Plait in the 
Center of the Back 

gure 28 Pin the pattern for the foundation back 
to an under paper with the hip seam towards you. form an 
inverted plait in the center of the back by measuring out from 
point \ twice the width of the plait at the waist, locating 
point 11, and out from point B twice the width of the plait at 
the bottom, locating point 12. Measure out from points 11 
and 12 one-half inch for seam. Connect points 11 and 12, 
and the seam points with straight lines 



Trace the outline of the foundation pattern through to 
the under paper and cut out the pattern on the outline thus 
given, allowing for a seam at the waist and the edge joining 
the front, and for finish at the bottom. The line A-B folds 
over to the line 11-12, thus forming an inverted plait in the 
center of the back. 

An inverted plait in the center of the back is usually 
planned two inches wide at the waist and three inches wide 
at the bottom. 



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Small Tucks at the Waist Line 



BACK 



See illustration which 
shows a tunic of even length 
with small tucks around the 
waist. 

I >i ;ii a Eoundat ion Two 
Gore skirl with ripple in the 
back to measure and test it 
in the required length. This 
illustration shows a high 
waisted effect; therefore, first 
change the foundation to the 
Empire according to instruc- 
tions on page 7. 

First plan the design on 
the foundation. See figure 
12. Join the two gores, front 
and back, joining from the 
hip down, with the bias sides 
just meeting. 

Measure down from 
point A on the center of the 
front, the length of the tunic 
in thr front, locating point 7. 
Measure down from point 2, 
following the hip curve, the 
length of the tunic over the 
hip, locating point 9. The 
hip length is usually about 
one inch more than the front length. 

Measure down from point A on the center of 
the back, the length of the tunic in the back, locating 
point 12. Connect points 7, 9 and 12 with a smooth 
curved line. This curve should be graduated with 
the eye. 

The under skirt is narrow; therefore, lor an 
average form, measure in two inches from point 5 
on the bottom of the front, locating point 5. In 
narrowing a foundation for an under skirt, it is 
usual to measure in the same amount on both the 
from and back, but for this particular design it is 
necessary that the widths of the front and back of 
the tunic be the same, so the widths of the front and 
back of the under skirt must be the same; therefore, 
measure the width of the front from point 5 to point 
B, then measure the same amount on the bottom of 
the back from point B, locating point 6. Connect 
points 3 and 5. and 3 and (i with straight lines, 
which become the bias edges of the under skirt. 

If the whole under part of the skirt is not to be 
cut of the material, measure up six inches from 
points 7, !S, 9. 11 and 12, respectively, locating points 13, 14, 
15, lti. ami 17. Connect these points with a smooth curved 
line. 

In order that the tucks will lie the same on the front and 
back, the width of the front and back of the tunic must be 
the same on the bottom; therefore, measure the distance from 
point !l to point 7, then measure that amount from point 12 
"ii the line 9-11-12, locating point 10. Connect points 3 and 
10 with a straight line, which becomes the bias side of the 
back of the tunic. 

Now separate the gores and trace the pattern for each 



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puce of the tunic to an under paper. Then trim off the bias 
side of the front and back foundations, cutting the front on 
the line 3-5, and the back on the line 3-6, allowing for a seam 
on each. 

In the illustration, it will be observed that the tucks 
form a panel effect in the center of the front. See figure 13. 
Measure out from point A, one-half of the width of the panel 
effect ai I he waist, locating point li. Measure out from point 
B, one-half of what the panel effect would be at the bottom, 
locating point 16. Connect points (i and 16 with a straight 
line, extending it to the high waist line. 



Divide the high waist line between points 1 and 5 into four equal parts, or any 
other number of parts to produce the desired number of tucks, locating points 2, 3 and 4. 
Divide the waist line, hip line and bottom into the same number of parts, thus locating 
points 7, 8 and 9 on the waist line: 12, 13 and 14 on the hip line, and 17, 18 and 19 on the 
bottom. Connect these points with straight lines as illustrated. 

See figure 14. Pin the foundation for the panel front to an under paper with the center 
of the front exactly on the edge of the paper. Cut the foundation on the line nearest to 
the center of the front. Square out from point 16, and measure out one and one-half 
inches on the line thus obtained and also from point 6. Pin the remainder of the foun- 
dation to the under paper with its edge exactly on these points. Then cut the foundation 
on the next line', square out from point 17, measure out the same amount and pin in 
position as before. Proceed in the same manner with each section, being careful in each 
rase to square out at the bottom to keep the parts in their relative positions. 

Measure out from the high waist line, the natural waist line ai point in, the hip line, 
and the bottom line at point 20, each, three-quarters of an inch or one-half the width of 
the spread, and measure out from each of the points thus obtained one-half inch for seam. 
Connect the points thus obtained with straight lines as illustrated. 

Trace the waist line, bias side and bottom to the under paper. Cut out the pattern 
on the outline thus formed, allowing for a seam on the bias side and for finish on the top 
and bottom. 

Trace each cut edge from the high waist line to a little below the hip, thus forming 
the edge of the plait and the line it folds to. Fold the plaits knvard the back. 

Design the tucks in the back of the tunic in the same manner. 

Tucks in a skirt would be planned and designed in exactly the same way except that 
the foundation would l>e spread only at the top as shown in figure 22. 




Gathered Skirt 



Draft a foundation skirt with ripple in 
the back to measure and test it to the re- 
quired length. If the illustration shows a 
yoke, design it according to instructions for 

yokes. 

Find the center of each piece at the waist 
or yoke, as it is gathered at the waist or yoke, 
and the center of the bottom. Connect these 
points with straight lines. 

See figure 8. Pin the foundation for the 
front to an under paper, pinning on the front 
edge :nid being careful that the center of the 
front is exactly on the edge of the paper. Cut 
the line which was drawn through the center 
of the gore from top to bottom, and spread 
the pieces at the waist one-half the width of 
the gore at the waist. 

If the skirt is gathered on to a yoke. 
spread at the yoke line one-half of the width 
of the gore at the yoke line. 

See figure 9. Pin the pattern for the 
back to an under paper with the center of the 
back exactly on the edge of the paper. ( 'in 
the gore on the line which was drawn through 
its center and spread at the waist one-half of 
the width of the gore at the waist, or spread 
at the yoke line one-half of the width of the gore at the 
yoke line, as the skirt is gathered at the waist or on to a yoke. 

Trace the waist line, bias sale and bottom of each pat- 
tern to the under paper and cut out the patterns on the out- 
lines thus formed, allowing for finish at the bottom, for seams 
at the waist and on the sides which are not cut on the fold of 
the goods. Smooth the bottom by drawing a new bottom 
line as illustrated. 




A gathered skirt can lie planned on any desired founda- 
tion, and the same principle of cutting and spreading for the 
fullness is always followed. 

The allowance for fullness is usually one-half of the 
width of the gore, though that amount may be and usually 
is more for a very sheer material. 

If extra fullness is desired at the bottom, cut and spread 
the back gore as shown in figure 11, page 13, making this 
change before spreading at the top for the gathers. 



Skirt With Cascaded Tunic 



Draft a foundation 
Two Gore skirt with 
ripple in the back to 
measure and test to 
the required length. 
Tliis skirt is high waist- 
ed, therefore, change 
the foundation to the 
Empire. 

First plan the design 
on the foundat ion, See 
figure 1- Join the two 
pores, front and back, 
joining from the hip 
down, with the bias 
sides just meeting. 

Measure dow n from 
point A on the center 
of tlif back, the length 
of the tunic in the back 
locating point 1. Meas- 
ure down from point 2, 
following the hip curve 
the length of the tunic 
over the hip, locating 
point 4. Measure down 

from point A on the center of the front, the length of the tunic in the 
front, locating point li. Connect points 1 and 4, and ti and 4 with straight 
lines. 

Plan the edges of the plaits with the eye according to the illustration, 
thus locating points 9 and 10 on the bottom of the back of the tunic, 
and 13 and 14 on the bottom of the front. Locate points 7, 8, 11 and 12 
on the waist line to correspond. Connect points 7 and 9, S and 10, 12 
and 14. and 11 and 13 with straight lines, extending them to the high 
waist line. 

The foundation skirt must be narrowed for the under skirt, therefore, 
measure three inches each way from point 5 on the bottom, locating 
points 22 and 23. Connect points 22 and 3, 23 and 3 with straight lines 
which become the bias sides of the under skirt. 

If the whole under part of the skirt is not to be cut of the material, 
measure up about twenty-five inches from the bottom at points B, 5 and 
thS middle of each gore, locating points 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19. Connect 
these points with a smooth curved line. 

Now separate the gores and trace the pattern for each piece of the 
tunic to an under paper. Then trim off the bias side on both the front 
and back foundations, cutting the front on the line 3-23 and the back 
on the line 3-22. allowing for a seam on each. 





See figure 2. Pin the foundation pattern for the back of 
the tunic to an under paper with the center of the hack 
exactly on the edge of the paper. Cut on the line 7-9, and 
move the remainder of the foundation straight out four 
inches at the bottom and two inches at the waist. 

Now pin it to the under paper and cut on the line 8-10. 
Move the remainder out six inches at the bottom and two 
and one-half inches at the waist. Pin into position and 
measure out one and three-quarters inches from point 2 to 
give extra fullness at the waist, locating point 11. 

Connect points 4 and 11 with a straight line, extending 
il up and the high waist line out to meet. Now connect 



points 1 and 4 with a straight line which gives the bottom 
of the designed tunic. 

Cut out the pattern on the outline thus formed, allowing 
lor seam on the bias side and for finish on the top and bottom. 
The fullness at the top is gathered into the waist. 

These instructions are intended to give the general 
principle of the formation of a cascade. The operator must 
be governed by the illustration as to the number of plaits 
and the amount to spread in order to secure the required 
depth of the plait. 



Rippled Border or Flounce 



Sec illustration which 
shows a deep flounce or 
border which runs to a 
high point on the sick'. 

Draft a foundation two 
pore skirt with ripple in 
the back to measure and 
test it to the required 
length. 

First plan the design on 
the foundation. See fig- 
ure 9. Join the two gores 
front and back, with the 
bias seams just meeting 
from the hip points down. 
Measure down from point 
\ the distance that the 
top of the border is from 
the wa is1 line in the center 
oi t he i ront, locating point 
1 Measure down from 
point 2, following the hip 
curve the distance that 
the top of the border is 
from tin- waist line :it the 
hip. locating point 4. 
Measure down from point 
A on the hack the dis- 
tance to the top of the 
border in the back, locat- 
ing point 5. 

I de curve for the top of the 
bordi I ci mi' ing points 1 and 4, 
and 4 and 5, must he graduated with 
or a tape line may be pinned 
on in the position to produce the re- 
quired curve, and then the line 
drawn along its edge. Draw this 
line, separate the gores, and trace 
the pattern for the border on each 
piece to an under paper. 

Seefigure in. Divide the foun- 
dation into four parts by folding 

tl dge of the center of the front 

to the bias edge, and that folded 
edge i" the bias edge. Crease 
these edges SO they will make dis- 
tinct line.-, which are indicated 1>\ 
points J. :', anil o on the top, and 
6, 7 and 8 on the bottom. 

figure 11. Now pin this foundation pattern for the 
front border to an under paper with the center of the front 
exactly on the edge of the paper. Cut the line 2 6 and 
Spread the pattern at the bottom one and one-half inches. 
Pin this i e in position, cut the line 3-7, spread at the bot- 
tom the same amount and pin. Now cut the line 5-8, spread 
and pin in the same way. 

Trace the top and bottom of the foundation pattern 
and cut out the pattern on the outline thus formed, allowing 
for a seam on the top and bias side, and for finish at the bot- 
tom. The back would be designed in exactly the same manner. 




If desired, this border may be cut in one piece by joining 
the two parts with the bias seams just meeting. In that 
case, allow for a seam in the center of the back. A seam 
should be allowed in the center of the back if cut over a four 
gore foundation. 

This general principle applies to any style of ripple 
flounce. The amount spread may be more or less as more 
or less ripple is desired. If more and smaller ripples are de- 
sired, the foundation may be divided into a greater number 
of parts. 



Yoke and Panels 



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See illustration which shows a skirt with a yoke, and 
with panels which extend to the bottom on each side of the 
front. Draft a foundation two gore skirt with ripple in the 
back tn measure and test it to the proper length. 

First plan the design on the foundation. .See figure 20. 
Measure down from point A the depth of the yoke in the 
front, locating point C. Measure down from point 2, follow- 
ing the curve of the hip, the depth of the yoke at the hip, 
locating point 5. Connect points C and 5 with a smooth 
curved line. 

Xow measure out from point C on the line C-o the dis- 
tance of the edge of the panel from the center of the front, 
locating point 6. Measure out from point 6 on the line 0-5 
the width of the panel at the waist, locating point 7. 

Measvire out from point B on the bottom the distance of 
the edge of the panel from the center of the front at the 
bottom, locating point S. Measure out from point 8 the width 
of the panel at the bottom, locating point 9. Conned points 
li and 8, and 7 and *• with straight lines. 

Xow trace the pattern for the yoke and panel to an 
under paper, also the patterns for the other two parts. 

The illustration shows that the panel forms a box plait, 
therefore, a half plait must be formed on each of its edges 
See figure 21. Measure out from point 6. and from point 7 
the width of the plait at the top, in this case one and one-half 
inches, locating points 10 and 12. Measure out from point 8 
and from point It the width of the plait at the bottom, locat- 
ing points 11 and 13. Measure out from points 10, 11, 12 
and 13. respectively, one-half inch from seam. Connect points 
10 and 11, 12 and 13, and the seam points with straight lines. 

Trace the outline of the whole foundation pattern for 
yoke and panel to the under paper and cut out the pattern 
on the outline thus formed, allowing for a seam at the waist 
and on the bias side of the yoke, and for finish at the bottom. 

See figure 22 which shows the foundation pattern for the 
gathered front. Kind the center of both the top and bottom. 




locating points 14 and 
15. Connect points 14 
and 15 with a straight 
line. 

See figure 23. Now 
pin this foundation to 
an under paper with 
the center of the front 
exactly on the edge of 
the paper. Cut the 
pattern on the line 
14-15 and spread at 
tin- top, two inches. 
Pin in position. 

A half plait was 
formed on the panel, 
therefore, a half plai! 
must be formed on this 
piece which joins the 
panel. Measure out 
from point 6 the width 
of the plait at the 
top. locating point 16, 
and out from point S 
the width of the plait 

at the bottom, locating point 17. Measure out from both 
points 16 and 17, one-half inch for seam. Connect points 
16 and 17, and the seam points with straight lines. Trace 
the waist line, line 6-8, and the bottom line to the under 
paper and cut out the pattern on the outline thus formed, 
allowing for seam on the top and for finish on the bottom. 

The piece joining the panel on the other side will be de- 
signed in exactly the same manner. 

In this illustration, the same design is carried out in the 
back, therefore, the back would be designed in tin- same 
manner. 



Skirt With Hip Extension 








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Draft a foundation two gore skirt with ripple in the hark 
to measure and test it to the required lengths. 

See figure 1. The light portion shows the foundation 
pattern for the front drafted to measure. Measure down 
from point 2 following the curve of the hip, the distance 
to the point of the hip extension, locating point 3. Square 
out from point 3. Measure out on this line the depth of 
the extension, in this case two and three-quarters inches, 
locating point 4. Connect points 2 and 4 with a straight 
line which forms the edge of the extension. 

Measure out from point 4 the same amount as from 
point 3 to point 4, locating point 5. Square out on the line 
2-4 from point 2, and measure out one and one-quarter 
inches, locating point (i. Connect points •"> ami 6 with a 



straight line. In finishing, this portion is folded in and 
plaited under at the waist, thus forming a pocket effect. 

Measure down from point 2, following the curve of the 
hip, the distance to the bottom of the hip extension, locating 
point 7. Connect points 1 ami 7 with the scroll placed as 
indicated, forming a deep curve. 

Measure the bottom of both the front and back which 
gives the present measure of the foundation pattern. Measure 
in from point 8 one-half of the difference between the present 
and required measures, locating point 9. Connect points 
7 and 9 with a straight line. 

Cut out the pattern on the outline thus formed, allowing 
for seams at the waist and on the bias side, and for finish at 
the bottom. For the back, see figure 2, which is designed 
in exactly the same manner as the front. 



Plain Ripple Flounce 

Draft a foundation skirt and test it to the 
required length. First plan the design for a 
plain foundation flounce, and cut out the pattern, 
allowing for seams on the top and in the center 
of the back. 

See figure li. Having produced tin- founda- 
tion flounce, fold it into sixteen pieces, or down 
until each piece is about three inches wide, by 
folding over and over, end to end, being careful 
that the end pieces meet square. Crease each folding line 
so as to make a distinct mark, and slash each one to the 
seam line. Spread each slashed line on the lower edge, from 
three-quarters to one and one-half inches, depending upon 
the amount of ripple desired. 

In spreading the pieces, work from the front of the 
flounce, pinning the first piece in position, then spreading ami 




pinning the next one, and so on. In spreading, be careful 
t hat t he upper edges of the pieces just meet, forming a smooth 
curve from point 2 to point G. 

Trace the outline of the whole flounce to the under paper 
and cut out the pattern, allowing for finish on the bottom and 
for seams on the top and in the center of the back. 



Circular Skirt 




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Draft a foundation two gore skirt with 
ripple in the back to measure and test it to the 
required length. 

See figure 17. I'm the patterns for the front 
ami back to an under paper with the waist line 
points just meeting at point J, and with the edges 
of the pattern meeting for about three inches 
down. Connect the bottom points, 10 and 11, 
with a smooth curved line. 

Trace the waist line, center of back and 
I iot torn through to the under paper and cut out 
the pattern on the outline thus formed, allowing 
for finish at the bottom and for seams at the 
waist, and in the center of the back or the center 
of the front as the skirt is to be finished with 
seams in the back or front. 

Circular skirt and yoke: First produce a 
plain circular foundation as shown in figure 17. 
Design the yoke by measuring down from points 
A, 1, 2, 3, and 4, the depth of the yoke, locating 
points ■">. 6, 7. 8 and 9, which should be connected 
with a smooth curve. Trace tins outline for the 
yoke to an under paper and cut out the pattern, allowing for 
seams at the top, bottom and center of the back or center ol 
front as the skirt is to open in the front or back. 

If the yoke is to be more than six inches deep, it must 
be designed before joining the gores, and they must then be 
joined with the waist points and bottom yoke points just 
meeting. 

If extra fullness is not desired at the bottom of the body 
of the skirt, trace the yoke curve, center of baok and bottom 
through to the under paper and cut out the pattern on the 




outline thus given, allowing for finish at the bottom and for 
seams as required. 

If extra fullness is desired, also trace the bias side of the 
front, line 7-10, locating points 7 and 10 on the under paper. 
Remove the patterns and cut out the foundation for the 
skirt body on the outline thus given. 



See figure IS. Divide the top of the skirt ?/ 
between points 7 and 9 into four equal parts, 
locating points 11, 12 and 13. Divide the 
bottom between points 10 and 17 into four 

equal parts, locating points 14, 15 and 16. 
Connect points 11 and 14, 12 and 15, and 13 
and lti with straight lines. 

See tigure 19. Pin this foundation to an 
under paper with the center of the front ex- 
actly on the edge of the paper. Cut the line 
11-14 and spread at the bottom one-third of 
the extra fullness desired. Pin this piece into 
position, cut the line 12-15, spread at the 
bottom the same amount and pin. Cut, and 
spread at the line 13-16 in the same way. 

To determine the amount to spread, 
measure the width of the bottom of the foun- 
dation and divide the difference between thai 
amount and one-half of the desired width of 
the skirt at the bottom, by the number of 
spreads. If more and smaller ripples are de- 
sired, the foundation may be divided into a 
greater number of parts. 

Trace the top, bias side and bottom to 
the under paper and cut out the pattern, al- 
lowing for finish at the bottom and for scales 
as required. 




Plain Circular Yoke 



To design a circular yoke, pin the foundation patterns 
for the front and back to an under paper as shown in figure 
17, page 16. The waist line points should just meet at point 
2, and the edges of the pattern should meet for about three 
inches down. 

Measure down from points A, 1, 2, 3 and 4, the depth 
of the yoke, locating points 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. Connect these 
points with a smooth curve. 



Trace the outline of the yoke to an under paper and cut 
out the pattern, allowing for seams at the top, bottom and 
center of the back or center of I he front as the skirt is to open 
in the front or back. 

For an ordinary yoke, the same principle applies except 
that it is not necessary to pin the parts together. It is only 
necessary to locate points for the bottom of the yoke by 
measuring the required depths down from the waist line. In 
measuring over the hip, follow the hip curve. 



Skirt With Gathered Back 

The instructions for this skirt are intended for one having gathers in 
just the middle of the back. For an ordinary gathered skirt, sec instructions 
in page 11. Draft a foundation two-gore skirt with ripple in the back to meas- 
ure and test it to the required length. 

See figure 2. The shaded portion shows the hack for a two-gore foun- 
dation skirt. Extend the waist line out both ways, fitting the scroll into the 
waist line curve. Measure out from point A two inches, locating point 4, and 
out from point 2 one-half inch, locating point 5. 

Connect points I and B with a straight line, which becomes the new 
center of the back. Connect points 5 and 3 with the scroll placed as before 
and he careful that the scroll just fits into the straight line at point 3, forming 
a smooth, continuous line. 

Cut out the pattern on the outline thus formed, allowing for seams at tin- 
waist and on the bias side, and for finish at the bottom. 

In cutting the front, the bias side from the waist to the hi]) must be 
straightened in the same way that the back has been straightened, measuring 
out from the waist line one-half inch and connecting the point thus obtained 
with the hip point. In cutting the goods, place the pattern with the center of 
the back on the fold of the goods. 




Side Plaits 





See illustration, which shows a skirt with side plaits 
and which has been planned with a sunken panel in the back. 
Draft a foundation two gore skirt to measure and test it to 
the required length. 

See figure 1. This skirt, being practically solid plaits, 
must be narrowed at the bottom. Extend the waist line of 
the front out from point 2. Measure in from point 4 on the 
bottom of the front, three inches, locating point 5. Connect 
points 3 and 5 with a straight line, extending it to the waist 
line, locating point 6. 

See figure 2. Extend the waist line of the back out from 
point 2. The width of the back at the bottom must be the 
same as that of the front. Measure the width of the front at 
the bottom, point B to point 5, and measure from point B 
on the bottom of the back the same amount, locating point 
8. Connect points 8 and 3 with a straight line, extending it 
to the waist line, locating point 7. 

Xow plan the design on the foundation. Locate the hip 
points by measuring down six inches from point A on both 
the front and back, locating points C, and the same amount 
from point 2, following the hip curve, locating points 3. Con- 
nect points C and 3 on both the front and back with a straight 
line. 

This ~kirt has been planned with a plait over the hip 
and with three on the half front. Therefore, divide the hip 
line into four equal parts, locating points 9, 10 and 11, and 
the bottom line into four equal parts, locating points 12, 13 
and 14. Connect points 9 and 12, 10 and 13, and 11 and 14 
with straight lines and extend them to the waist line. 

It has been planned with the same number of plaits in 
the back as were shown in the front, therefore, divide the hip 
line of the back into four equal parts, locating points 15, 16 
and 17, and the bottom line into four equal parts, locating 
points IS, 19 and 20. 



Connect points 15 and 18, 16 and 19, and 17 and 20 
with straight lines and extend them to the waist line. These 
straight lines represent the edges of the plaits. 

See figures 3 and 4. Pin the pattern for the front to an 
under paper, with the center of the front exactly on the edge 
of the paper. The plait nearest the center of the front must 
be designed first; therefore, trace points 9 and 12 through 
and turn back the pattern. Measure out from point 9 twice 
the width of the plait at the hip, locating point 4, and out 
from point 12 twice the width of the plait at the bottom, 
locating point 5. Connect points 4 and 5, and 9 and 12 with 
straight lines. Fold the line 9-12 over to the line 4-5, thus 
forming the first plait. This plait has been planned one and 
one-half inches wide at both hip and bottom, but it may be 
more or less than that amount and may be wider at the bot- 
tom if desired. 

Now, see figure 5, turn the pattern down and trace points 
10 and 13 through. Turn back the pattern, measure out for 
tin- plait, connect the points and fold the plait as before. 
Continue in this way to mark for and produce the next plait. 

Then, see figure 6. A half plait must Vie produced on the 
bias side; therefore, measure out from point 3 the width of 
the plait at the hip, locating point 6, and out from point 8 
the width of the plait at the bottom, locating point 7. Meas- 
• ure out from points 6 and 7 one-half inch for seam. Connect 
points (i and 7, and the seam points with straight lines and 
extend them to the waist line. 

Trace the waist line, bias side and bottom of the founda- 
tion to the under paper and cut out the pattern on the out- 
line thus formed, allowing for a seam at the waist and for 
finish at the bottom. 

See figure 7. Pin the pattern for the back to an under 
paper with the, edge which joins the front four or five inches 
in from the edge of the paper. 




A half plait was formed on the front, 
therefore, a half plait must be formed on the 

edge of the back which joins the front. Meas- 
ure out from point 3 the width of the plait at 
the hip, locating point 1. and out from point 
8 the width of the plait at the bottom, locat- 
ing point 2. Measure out from points 1 and 
2. one-half inch for seam. Connect points 1 
and 2. and the seam points with straight lines 
and extend them to the waist line. 

\m\ trace points 17 and 20 through, 
measure for the plait, connect the points, fold 
the plait and pin down. Continue in the 
same way to form the plaits for the lines 
16-19, and 1.5-18. The center of the back is 
cut on the fold of the goods. 

Trace the outline of the whole founda- 
tion pattern to the under paper and cut out 
the pattern on the outline thus formed, allow- 
ing for a seam at the waist and for finish at 
the bottom. 

As planned, these plaits all turn toward 
the back, the center of the back is cut on the 
fold of the goods and forms a sunken panel. 
The back can be cut with an inverted plait 
if desired. An inverted plait is usually 
planned two inches wide at the hip and three 
inches wide at the bottom. To design, meas- 
ure out from point C twice the width of the 
plait at hip, and out from point B twice the width of the 
plait at the bottom. Measure out from these points one-half 
inch from seam. Connect these points with straight lines and 
extend them to the waist line. See illustration of an inverted 




plait in the center of the back on page 9, figure 28. ( In- 
verted Plait.) 

See instructions on page 21 for testing a side plaited 
skirt around the waist. 



Box Plaited Skirt, cut Straight Plaited 



1E_S 



I R 




The above diagram, figure 1, illustrates the principle of 
the production of and the arangernent of the plaits in making 
a box plaited skirt with straight plaits. Ii can be applied to 
plain materials or to plaids and stripes. 

For the present styles and the average form, this skirt 
should measure from two and one-half to three yards around 
the bottom, though that amount may be more or less as the 
skirt is to be scant or more full. 

If the material is plain, cut a paper pattern, but if strip- 
ed, cut a pattern or plan directly on the goods. Cut. the goods 
in straight breadths. Stitch the breadths together on the 
selvage edges. 

If the plaits are planned on the goods, locate the waist 
line and the hip line by drawing straight lines on the under 
side or running a basting thread clear across the stitched 
breadths. 

The above illustration has been planned with a space in 
the center of the front, one in the center of the back, and with 
four on the half garment between the front and back, thus 
bringing a box plait over the hip. Therefore, there are four 
spaces on the half pattern not counting the ones in the center 
of the front and the back. 

Determine the width of the skirt at the bottom. The 
above illustration, figure 1, represents a piece of paper cut 
slightly longer than the longest skirt length and to which 
allowance has been made tor a seam al the top and for finish 
at the bottom. It is as wide as one-half of the desired width 
of the skirt at the bottom. 

Locate the waist, line by measuring down one-half inch 
from points A and D and connect these with a straight line. 
Measure down from the waist line on the center of the front and 
i In' center of the back six inches or as much more than sixin- 
ches as the skirt is to be cut high in the waist, locating 
points 1 and 6. Connect points 1 and 6 with a straight line. 
This becomes the hip line. 



There being four spaces on the half pattern, not ci unit- 
ing the front or back, divide the hip line into five equal 
parts, locating points 2, 3, 4 and 5. Divide the bottom into 
the same number of parts, locating points 7, 8, 9 and 10. 
These points represent the centers of the spaces. 

The center of the plaits must necessarily come midway 
between the center of the spaces, therefore, locate the centers 
between the space points on both the hip line and the .bottom, 
locating points 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 on the hip line, and 
points 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 on the bottom. 

In planning for plaids and stripes, this locating of the 
centers of the spaces and the plaits can only be experimental. 
because a prominent stripe should run through the center of 
the box plait, therefore, select that stripe for the center of 
the box plait next to the front which comes nearest to points 
11 and 1(3. 

Then, select the stripe for the next plait which comes 
twice as far from the first one as the distance of the first from 
the center of the front. 

The relative widths of the box plait and the space will 
be governed by the illustration, by the width of the stripe 
in striped materials, or either one may be made arbitrary. 
The width of the other will then depend upon the size of the 
hip. The width of either may be the same at the top and the 
bottom, or either one may be greater at the bottom, or both 
may be greater at the bottom. 

In this case, we have determined that the width of the 
space is to be one inch at the hip and two inches at the bot- 
tom. Therefore, measure out one-half inch from point 1. 
both ways from points 2, 3, 4. and 5, and in from point ti, 
locating points E. Measure out one inch from point H, both 
ways from points 7, 8, 9 and 10, and in from point C, locat- 
ing point 3 F. Connect points E and F with straight lines as 
illustrated. These are the lines to which the edge- of the 
box plaits fold. 




Now, to determine the width of the plaits at the hip, 
measure the width of the spaces and divide the difference 
between that amount and one-half of the required hip measure 
by the number of plaits on the half pattern. Measure one- 
half of that amount each way from points 11, 12, 13, 14 and 
15, locating points R. 

A box plait is usually cut about one inch wider at the 
bottom than at the top; therefore, measure one-half inch 
more from the center of the plait at the bottom than was 
measured at the top, locating points S. Connect points R 
and S with straight lines as illustrated. These lines are the 
edges of the plaits. 

To test a box plaited skirt around the waist. If the box 
plait is wider than the space, make any necessary change on 
the plait, but if the space is wider than the plait, make the 
change on the space. 

Measure the width of the plaits and the spaces at the 
waist line on the half pattern. Divide the difference between 
the present and the required measures for the half skirt by 



one less than the number of box plaits on the half pattern. 
Divide that amount equally between the two sides of each 
box plait except the ones next to the center of the front and 
the center of the back, which are changed on just the one 
side as illustrated. This change is shown with the dotted lines. 

In making this change, the testing scale will be an as- 
sistance. The change on the half skirt is made in eight 
places, therefore, use the scale of "eights." 

In cutting a box plaited skirt of plaids or stripes, it will 
be found to be a great assistance to cut a paper pattern which 
should then be cut into sections with one plait or space to a 
section. 

Then see figure 2. Having determined upon the stripes 
to be used for the center of the plait and the center of the 
space, pin these sections to the goods with the center of each 
plait or space exactly on the stripe. Mark the edges of each 
box plait and space with chalk or basting thread. 

The width of the folded plait will be more or less, de- 
pending upon the distance between the stripes selected, but 
should not be less than one inch at the bottom. 



Instructions for Testing Side Plaited Skirts Around the Waist 

This skirt must be tested to the required waist measure. 
When it has been cut out, measure the whole pattern, front 
and back, on the waist line, being careful that the plaits are 
folded and pinned down. 

Divide the difference between the present and required 
measures for the half skirt by the number of plaits, not 
counting the one next to the center of the front nor the one 
next to the center of the back. Change each plait except 
the one next to the center of the front and the one next to 
the center of the back that amount, dividing the change be- 
tween each side of the edge of the plait, thus measuring on 
the plait for one side and on the space for the other. 

In basting, the edge of the plait is folded back to the 
corrected line and this new edge is then folded to the correct- 
ed line on the space. 




Straight Plaited Skirt 





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For the present styles and the average form, this skirt 
should measure from two and one-half to three yards around 
the bottom; however, the breadths are usually cut in full 
breadths, either one or two being used. The usual plan is 
to use three. 

Cut the goods in lengths slightly longer than the longest 
skirt length, allowing for a seam at the top and for finish at 
the bottom. Plaids must be matched in the cutting of the 
lengths. Stitch t he breadths together on the selvage edges. For 
plaids and stripes, the plaits must be planned directly on the 
goods. For plain materials it is quicker to plan on the goods, 
though a pattern may be cut. 

Find the middle of the center breadth which becomes 
the center of the front. With the goods folded through the 
center of the front, draw a straight line or run a basting 
thread clear across the basted breadths at the top. This 
becomes the waist line. Draw another line clear across 
parallel with the waist line, six inches below the waist line 
or as much more than six inches as the skirt is to be cut 
high waisted. This line becomes the hip line. 

Add one and one-half inches to the hip measure to allow 
for a slight looseness over the hips. 

For Plain Material. Proceed as above or cut a pattern 
by taking a piece of paper equal in size to one-half of the 
whole skirt, and locating the waist and hip lines. 

First plan the panel front by measuring from the center 
of the front at the hip, one-half of the width of the whole 
panel (this is usually about three inches on the half), locating 
point 2. Measure from point B on the bottom, three-quarters 
of an inch more than the width of the panel at the hip, 
Locating point 5. Connect points 2 and 5 with a straight line 
and extend it to the waist line. This becomes the edge of 
the first plait. 

Now plan the inverted plait in the center of the back 
by measuring from the center of the back, point 4 on the 
hip line and point 7 on the bottom, the width of the inverted 
plait, which is usually about five inches, locating points 3 



and 6. Connect points 3 and 6 with a straight line. This 
line becomes the edge of the last plait. 

Determine upon the number of plaits desired on the 
half skirt and divide the distance between points 3 and 2 on 
the hip line into one less than that number of parts. Thus, 
in the above illustration, nine plaits have been planned; 
therefore, the distance between points 3 and 2 has been 
divided into eight equal parts. These points are represented 
on the hip line by points C. Divide the bottom into divisions 
of exactly the same width, measuring from point 6. These 
points are represented in the illustration by points D. Con- 
nect points C and D with straight lines as illustrated. These 
lines represent the edges of the plaits. 

Xow determine the width of the space between the plaits 
by dividing one-half of the hip measure, less the width of the 
front on the half pattern, by one less than the number of 
plaits on the half pattern. Thus in the above case, there 
are nine plaits on the half pattern; therefore, one-half of the 
hip measure, less the width of the panel at the hip, point 1 
to point 2, would be divided by eight. 

Measure the width of the space toward the front on the 
hip line from the edge of each plait, thus locating points K. 
Measure toward the front from the same edges on the bottom 
from one inch to one and one-half inches more than the 
width of the space at the hip, thus locating points F. 

Connect points E and F with straight lines as illustrated. 
Each of these fines is slanting and is the line to which the 
preceding plait folds. 

When lines are to be drawn on the goods, tailor's chalk 
must be used, and if the material is such that, it cannot be 
easily removed, it must be drawn on the under side and 
carried through with a basting thread. 

If the whole number of plaits on the half pattern is not 
more than nine, the testing scale can be used in measuring 
for the space and in testing the waist size. Thus, if the whole 
number of plaits is nine, the scale of "Eights" would be 
used, because the hip measure is to be divided into eight 
parts. In using the scale, mark at that point representing 
the whole amount of change. 



Now test to the waist size by measuring the width of 
each space and the front on the waist line. If the result is 
more than one-half of the required waist measure, divide the 
difference between the present and required waist measure 
by the number of plaits on the half pattern less two, because 
no change should be made on the front or back plaits. Divide 
that amount of change equally between the edge of each 
plait and the edge to which the plait folds, as illustrated 
with dotted lines, thus locating points 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 
etc. Connect points 10 and C, 11 and E, 12 and C, etc., 
with the scroll placed as indicated. 

Form the plaits by folding the line 8-2-5 over to the 
line 9-E-F, line 10-C-D over to line 11-E-F and so on. 

If there is but a small amount of change to be made in 
I he waist size, it is not necessary to make any change on the 
plait next to the center of the back. On the other hand, 
when there is a large amount of change it is sometimes de- 
sirable to make a greater amount of change on those plaits 
coming over and next to the hip than those next to the front 
and back plaits. 

For Plaids and Stripes. Determine upon the prominent 
stripe which is to be the edge of the plait. In making this 
selection, care must be taken that they be far enough apart 
to allow sufficient goods to form the plait. This will usually 
lie not less than five inches at the hip. In materials where 
the stripes come quite close together, it may be necessary to 
skip one or more stripes. 

The stripe nearest to the center of the front becomes 
the i'dge of the first plait and is indicated on the diagram as 
line 1. Now work toward the center of the back from the 
first plait and mark each stripe which is to lie the edge of a 
plait with a pin or basting. Leave at least five inches in the 
center of the back for an inverted plait. 



Now determine the width of the space between the plaits 
by dividing one-half of the hip measure, less the width of the 
front on the half pattern, by one less than the number of 
plaits on the half pattern. Measure that amount toward 
the front from the edge of each stripe which is to be the edge 
of a plait, thus locating points E. 

Measure toward the front from the same edges on the 
bottom from one to one and one-half inches more than the 
width of the space at the hip, locating points F. Connect 
these points with straight lines as illustrated. Each of these 
lines is slanting and is the line to which the preceding plait 
folds. 

The edge of the front plait may be left straight as illus- 
trated with the dotted line, but if it is made slightly slanting 
by measuring three-quarters of an inch toward the back at 
the bottom and drawing a line from that point through the 
hip point, (2), the plaits next to the center of the front will 
not have the usual tendency of kicking out. 

Form an inverted plait in the center of the back by 
measuring out five inches from the edge of the last plait al 
both the hip and the bottom, locating points 4 and 7. Measure 
out from points 4 and 7 one-half inch for seam. Connect 
points 4 and 7, and the seam points with straight lines. 

Test the waist size as explained for plain materials, 
except if the stripe is such that a change cannot be made 
on the edge of the plait, make all the change on the space. 

To test the length. Divide the waist fine and the bottom 
into quarters. Test the lengths by measuring from the waist 
line to the bottom in the usual way. A bordered material 
must be corrected to lengths by raising or lowering the waist 
line in the fitting. 



To Cut a Side Plait Straight Plaited 








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In making side plaits it is frequently an advantage to 
s.i plan them that they will always told to a straight. Cut a 
Foundation pattern to measure and plan the design on the 
foundation in the usual way. In the illustration used, see 
figure 1, two plaits have been planned on each side of the 
center of the front. 



Pin the foundation to an under paper with the center of 
the front exactly on the edge of the paper. Trace points 5 
and 6 through and turn back the pattern. 

See figure '_'. Measure out from point li, twice the width 
of the plait at the bottom, locating point 9. In this case, 
the plait has been planned one inch wide at the bottom. 



Now determine the distance from point 9 to the center of 
the front, measuring square with the center of the front, and 

measure that amount out square from the center of the front 
through point ."). locating point 10. Connect points 5 and 6, 
and 9 and 10 with straight, lines, extending them to the edges 
of the paper. Fold the line 5-6 over to line 9-10, thus form- 
ing the tirst plait. 

It will he observed that the line 9-10 is parallel with the 
center of the front and will therefore be on the straight of 
the goods. 

See figure 3. Turn the pattern down, trace points 7 
and N through and turn back the pattern. 

See figure 4. Measure out from point 8 twice the width 
of the plait at the bottom, locating point 11. Determine the 
distance from point 11 to the edge of the proceeding plait, 



measuring square with the edge of the plait and measure 
that amount out square from the edge of the plait through 
point 7, locating point 12. Connect points 7 and S, and 11 
and 12 with straight lines, extending them to the edges, thus 
forming the second plait. 

Now turn the pattern down and trace the waist line, 
bias side and bottom through. Cut out the pattern on the out- 
line thus formed, allowing for finish on the bottom and for 
seams at the waist and on the bias side. 

Design the back in the same manner. 

This principle can be applied to any side plait. Remem- 
ber that the line to which the plait folds must always be on 
the straight of the goods; therefore, always measure to and 
from the center of the front or the back for the first plait, 
and to the edge of the prececding plait for each succeeding one. 



Cascade 





Draft a foundation skirt and-test it to the required length. 

See figure 14. Plan the design on the foundation front. 
Measure out from point A the width of the panel from the 
center of the front at the waist, locating point 4. Measure 
out from point B the width of the panel from the center of 
the front at bottom, locating point 5. Connect points 
4 and 5 with straight line. This line, 4-5, represents the 
edge of the panel. 

Draw a straight line from point 2 through point 3, ex- 
tending it beyond point 3. Measure down on the line 2-3 
the depth of the cascade at the hip, locating point 7. Meas- 
ure down from the waist line on the line 4-5 the depth of the 
cascade in the front, locating point 6. Connect points 6 and 
7 with straight line. 

Plan the edges of the plaits with the eye according to 
the design, thus locating points S and '.) at the waist, and 
points 10, 11 and 12 on the line 6-7. Now trace the outline 
of the cascade to an under paper, tracing on the lines 4-2, 
2-7, 7-6 and 6-4. Also trace the lines 8-10, 9-11 and 9-12 
which represent the edges of the plaits. 



See figure 15. Pin the foundation pattern for the cascade- 
to an under paper with its edge exactly on the edge of the 
paper. Cut on the line 8-10 and spread at the bottom three 
and one-half inches and pin down. Now cut on the line 9-11, 
spread at the bottom three and one-half inches and pin down. 
There is no spread at the top on the first two plaits because 
they run into nothing. Now cut on the line 9-12, spread 
at the bottom five inches and at the top two and one-half 
inches. Pin this part into position. In spreading this part, 
move it straight out. 

Now connect points 6 and 7 with a straight line which 
represents the bottom of the cascade. Trace the lines 8-10, 
8-A, 9-11, 9-B, 9-12, 9-C, 2-7, 6-7, and the waist line 
through to the under paper. Cut out the pattern on the out- 
line thus formed, allowing for seam at the waist, on both 
sides, and for finish at the bottom. 

The line 8-A folds over to the line 8-10, line 9-B to the 
line 9-11, and line 9-C to line 9-12, thus forming a cascade 
as shown in figure 16. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 063 872 9 * 



Local and General Agents 

Managers and Teachers 

WANTED 



For Information Address 

L. J. SNOW, 

Rockford, 111. 



